Coro

Coro

Dates of Operation: 1901 – 1992 The most collectible Coro jewelry was produced from the late 1930s – 1970s.

In 1901 Emanual Cohn and Carl Rosenberger formed Cohn & Rosenberger, Inc. In 1921 the name of the company was changed to Coro, Inc. In her book Coro Jewelry A Collector’s Guide Marcia “Sparkles” Brown describes the early Coro business model.

For ten years, the firm produced collar pins, hat pins, sautoirs, beads, and mourning jewelry. It did not manufacture these standard jewelry items; instead, the company assembled findings to produce the final product.

Brown, Marcia. Coro Jewelry A Collector’s Guide. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2005. p. 7.

In 1911 Emanual Cohn died and Carl Rosenberger purchased Cohn’s share of the company. Coro was successful so Rosenberger decided to build on that success and expand the facility to be able to manufacture additional jewelry items. It was a good decision; business remained strong. Then in 1911 another great decision was made. Royal Marcher was hired as a salesman.

Marcher was key in developing and growing the marketing department to help expand Coro into a huge jewelry company with branches all over the world. The following excerpt from the book American Costume Jewelry art & Industry, 1935 – 1950 A – M by Carla Ginelli Brunialti & Roberto Brunialti describes Marcher’s role in the company.

The company owed its great commercial development to his organization capacity, his marketing skills, and his capacity to understand and anticipate the public’s tastes…

Brunialti, Carla Ginelli and Roberto. American Costume Jewelry Art & Industry, 1935 – 1950 Volumes A – M. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2008. p.84.

Coro’s strong marketing program and the importance placed on the sales staff accelerated the growth of the business. By 1946,

Coro was the largest manufacturer in the field, accounting for 16% costume jewelry production in the USA and it was the only company with the necessary means to cover an entire range of products, from the most expensive line; CoroCraft, to the low-priced items for the “five & dime,…

Brunialti, p. 88

Another important name in Coro history is Adolph Katz. He joined the company in 1924 and remained until 1960. His name appears on most Coro design patents; however, he did not create the patented designs bearing his name. In his time at Coro, Adolph Katz was design director, product manager, Vice President, and President. He worn many hats. It was also his responsibility to apply for the patents. In the book American Costume Jewelry Art & Industry, 1935 – 1950 A-M Brunialti provides evidence that Adolph Katz was a talented designer in his own right. Brunialti quotes from a 1948 article by Irwin Ross in “American Magazine.” The article quotes Katz describing himself as a designer and visionary.

“Let’s say I’m having lunch” he says, “I find myself next to a coffeepot. I’m staring at it. I suddenly decide that what we need more than anything else in the line is a coffeepot. But do I just make a common, ordinary model of a coffeepot? Not on your life. I glamorize that old coffeepot, and it may make us $1,000,000.”

Brunialti, p. 91

In 1933, as a very young man, Gene Verri (Verrecchia) joined Coro as Head Designer and remained Head Designer until 1965.  Verri was responsible for the wonderful Coro designs patented under his name and Adolph Katz’s name. Verri was extremely busy, so Katz relieved him of the patent paperwork resulting in his name being listed on the patents as the designer. There is no question that both Gene Verri and Adolph Katz were important to the success of Coro and the to the creation of many of the Coro designs collectors seek today.

In addition of Adolph Katz and Gene Verri, many other talented designers worked for Coro including Robert Geissman whose name appears on a few Coro patents. In addition, despite Coro’s massive manufacturing capabilities, Coro contracted with jobbers to create and manufacture jewelry to be sold under the Coro brand. For example, Florenza designed and manufactured jewelry to be sold under the Coro brand. Frank DeLizza in his book Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer writes about DeLizza and Elster’s relationship with Coro.

…Mr. Katz from Coro called wanting to see the line. Harold was not there, so I took the line to Coro at their 34th Street and Broadway place, and showed it to him. He listed a lot of numbers, and then called in Mr. Marcher and they discussed how much they would buy. He asked me what our volume was at that time. I said we were shipping approximately $50,000 a month and he said, “Good,” he wanted the entire production of the factory at that time,..

DeLizza, Frank. Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer. New York/Florida: DeLizza Publishing, 2007. p. 48.

Frank DeLizza’s father refused Coro’s offer because he did not want to be dependent on only one customer, but he promised to put Coro‘s order first. Mr. Katz was disappointed but still placed a huge order.

One of the most distinctive designs associated with Coro are the Coro Duette pins. A Duette is a convertible brooch. It consists of a frame holding two clips that can be worn together on the frame or removed to be worn separately. The Duette design originally appeared in Europe’s fine jewelry trade. Royal Marcher quickly recognized the potential of the innovative mechanism. Under his leadership Coro patented the mechanical design of Gaston Candas on May 31, 1930, utility patent number 1798867. This utility patent number appears on the Duette frames.

Design Patent 116,478 issued to A. Katz for Coro Sept. 5, 1939

Each frame was custom made to fit the decorative clips, so should the original frame be lost, it is very difficult to find a replacement.

Brand Trait: There are at least ten different Coro design patents featuring similar bell-shaped elements making them a recognizable Coro brand trait. Duette variations featuring similar blooms were advertised as “Quivering Camellias” and as “Peonies”. Coro‘s marketing department loved to name their designs!

This is the earliest design patent showing the “bell-shaped” blooms and the style often referred to as “Quivering Camillias”. It is design patent number 110,296 issued to G. Verrecchio (Gene Verri) June 28, 1938.

Brand Trait: Note the translucent green enamel on the bow. Many early Coro designs have this detail.

These Duette pin designs are mirror images when clipped into the frame. Out of the frame, the clips are slightly asymmetrical. There is a right side and left side when worn.

Brand Trait: The enameling on the leaves in Coro designs often have a wide ribbon of unenameled metal outlining the leaf shape. The burgundy leaves in the above Duette illustrate this trait.

The Comet Duette features swirling curves and lines in this modern, post War design.

Design Patent 128,822 issued to A. Katz Aug. 12, 1941

Brand Trait: The design of the Lovebirds is distinctive. The heads are shown in profile and the tails come to a long point. Coro created many Cockatoo designs (pins and clips) with these recognizable traits.

The Duette pins shown here are at the low to mid-range. In 1948 the Lovebirds Duette sold for $4.00 and the earrings for $2.00.

Coro lines included a broad range of designs done in volume and produced in all price levels…Coro Jewelry accounted for the greatest volume of sales, with pieces retailing [in 1951] in the range of $1.00 to $10.00. Corocraft pieces were being sold in stores for $10.00 to $50.00.

Brown p.9

Coro had three divisions: Coro, Corocraft and Vendôme. They operated separately under the Coro brand. Corocraft and Vendôme produced top quality products. Coro and Corocraft had similar design aesthetics at different price points.

Vendôme, had a design aesthetic different from the other Coro lines. It featured strung beads and pearls. The head designer of Vendôme beads was Helen Marion.

She lived in New Jersey and would travel to Providence every Monday afternoon and go home every Thursday afternoon. She was able to create miracles in just a three-day work week.

Brown, p. 147

Later non-beaded designs were added including high-end pin and earring sets designed innovative elements.

When pearls lost their popularity, Vendôme brought out a line of enameled goods called Japonica, by designer Florence Marr. The Japonica line was produced by outside vendors. Gene Verri, head designer for Coro, was involved in creating beaded products.

Brown, p. 147

Replete with artistic talent, business savvy, and exceptional marketing Coro was in business for 75 years finally closing its doors in 1992.

Note: For more information on Coro patents refer to Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 the basics of Dating Jewelry 1935 – 1980 Second Edition by Julia C. Carroll. Images of known patents for Coro and other makers are reproduced in this book. In addition, the design patents are available for viewing online at www.jewelrypatents.com This site was started by James Katz in 2004 and is today managed by Pretty Snazzy Jewelry & Supplies.

Coro jewelry advertisements can be found in many online sites. One of the most fun is a YouTube site called Olive’s Vintage Market. She presents valuable information on vintage costume jewelry including two slide shows titled Vintage Coro Jewelry Advertisements & Identification Part 1 and Part 2 showing dozens – perhaps over 100 – vintage Coro jewelry advertisements. Olive thoughtfully presents the advertisements, so the printed information is large enough to be read.

The following gallery of Coro and Corocraft jewelry is a small sampling of the Coro‘s many and varied designs. Following the Coro gallery is a gallery of Vendôme jewelry.

Coro and Corocraft Gallery

Crown Pins

Traditionally crowns symbolize victory. When two forces go to war, the winning side is “crowned” the victor. Many costume jewelry brands including Coro, Trifari, Mazer, ART, and Weiss created replicas of crowns, swords, rings, and scepters associated with royalty. Royal jewelry was a popular motif for jewelry design prior to Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953.

Coro designed many different crown pins including this 2″ CoroCraft Sterling pin featuring clear crystal rhinestones. It is design patent 147,409 issued to A. Katz Sept 2, 1947. It is a three-dimensional design with thick rhodium plating.

Keys

Generally, key motif pins are considered to be good luck. Coro produced many different key motif designs.

Brand Trait: The three tiny leaves with tiny pearls decorating the middle key pin are a brand trait of Coro designs.

Birds

Brand Trait: The shape of the bird’s head and beak is a distinctive Coro brand trait found on many Coro designs.

Floral Designs

Brand Trait: Movable stamen, not on a spring, is an innovative, recognizable design trait of some early Coro floral designs.

Brand Trait: Hyacinth flower designs were a favorite of Coro.

Brand Trait: Many Coro bouquet designs have a decorative bow.

Back view of the perfume holder

People

Coro produced many “people” pins with relatable personalities that spoke to the varied interests of their customers. The ballerina, depicted on her toes, is decorated with crystal rhinestones and has a moonstone face. Her arms and legs are realistic in their proportions. Ballerina designs were popular in the 1950s. It is a mostly symmetrical design that the “eye” loves. The comical man with the cane is another example of how Coro used curved wires to design a piece. This design resembles the 1930s silent film star Charlie Chaplin.

Sets

Stamped signature

Author’s Note: The color of the plating and the design of these set remind me of Florenza jewelry. Florenza designed and manufactured some jewelry to be sold under the Coro brand. Did Florenza make these sets? I don’t know, but it is fun to speculate.

Close view of the amethyst rhinestones and symmetrical design

Bracelet

Vendôme Gallery

Beaded Necklaces

Vendôme jewelry featured expensive details like the ruby baguette decorated clasp shown here.
Measuring 16″, including the extension chain, this Vendôme necklace set features faux turquoise beads and faceted emerald glass beads.

Brand Trait: Vendôme necklaces often innovatively include plastic beads and other non-glass elements in their designs.

The textured floral clasp is a great choice for the fall motif design.

Brand Trait: Vendôme was a high-end division of Coro so each design, even simple strands of beads, include expensive design elements.

Brand Trait: Vendôme clusters of disk beads is a brand trait for Vendôme designs.

Brand Trait: Vendôme “ribbon” or “ruffle” designs are distinctive and recognizable.

Brand Trait: The filigree backs, similar to Miriam Haskell jewelry backs, are distinctive design traits for many Vendôme beaded designs. The “sandwiched” back pieces hide the wires in the hand-made designs. The Vendôme backs are thickly plated and remain rust free.

Vendôme Designs without Beads

Brand Trait: The Vendôme jewelry without beads often feature prong-set stones in open-back settings.

Brand Trait: Vendôme designs often included twisted and shaped metal wires.