The Mazer family, including seven children, immigrated from Russia in 1917. Mazer Brothers was founded in 1923 by brothers Louis and Joseph. Originally the company made shoe buckles but evolved to produce jewelry in 1927. Prior to starting his own costume jewelry business in 1937 Marcel Boucher, who was trained in fine jewelry, encouraged the Mazer brothers to branch into costume jewelry.
The Mazer brand was influenced by fine jewelry designs of the era, especially the designs coming out of Europe. Mazer advertising slogans reflect this connection to precious jewelry: The Precious Look in Fashion Jewelry 1949, Jewels of Elegance 1946.
Mazer Bros. was known for its innovative stance, exploring new design and production methods and continually experimenting with different techniques for creating metal alloys or for use in the finishing processes.
Cera, Deanna Farneti Editor. Jewels of Fantasy Costume Jewelry of the 20th Century. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1992. Article The Luxury of Freedom, the Freedom of Luxury: Manufacturers and Their Trademarks by Farneti, Cera Deanna. p. 217.
Mazer Bros. closed in the 1950s. The exact date is unclear. However, Mazer Bros. is listed in the 1951 Jewelers’ Buyers Guide, but no longer listed in the 1960 guide.
JOMAZ – Dates of Operation
In 1949 Joseph Mazer started his own costume jewelry brand and launched his first collection. The advertising refers to the company as Joseph Mazer Jewels of the Elite; however, the new company marked the jewelry JOMAZ. Jomaz was in business until 1980 which is the last time Jomaz is listed in the Jewelers Board of Trade Directory. Information from: Cera, Deanna Farneti. Jewels of Fantasy Costume Jewelry of the 20th Century. p. 217.
Signatures
MAZER
MAZER STERLING used during the war years Early 1940s – unknown1948 – 1950s
JOMAZ
JOSEPH MAZER – stamped into the metal
Some Joseph Mazer boxed sets were unmarked except for the display card and/or paper label.
JOMAZ without the copyright symbol; 1949 – 1955, may have been used longer1955 – 1980
In her book Costume Jewelers The Golden Age of Design Joanne Dubbs Ball describes the beauty of the MAZER and JOMAZ jewelry.
Whether marked Mazer Bros., Mazer, or Jomaz, all jewelry bearing these three names exhibit only the finest in workmanship and design excellence. To hold one in your hand is to see a shining example of what the golden age was all about.
Ball, Joanne Dubbs. Costume Jewelers, The golden Age of Design. West Chester, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1990. p. 101.
Designers
MAZER
Boucher for Mazer
Design Patent Number 103,385 issued to M. Boucher for Mazer March 2, 1937.
One design patent and two utility patents are assigned to Marcel Boucher for Mazer. The design patent shown above is for a pin. The two utility patents (not shown) are for a mechanism to connect two clips together to be worn as a brooch (like the Coro Duette).
Marcel Boucher designed for Mazer prior to 1937. It is unknown if he continued this association after he started his own company. Some Mazer designs made after 1937, continue to exhibit design traits associated with Boucher. For example, the bow pin shown below is a Mazer design with a Boucher design trait.
This1940s MAZER STERLING 3″ bow pin features invisibly set ruby rhinestones studded with crystal stones. Invisibly set stones is a well-recognized design trait of Marcel Boucher jewelry.Back view showing the two-piece construction and the vermeil plating.
L. Mazer
There are eleven known design patents assigned to L. Mazer (Louis Mazer). Five are floral designs, five are face or mask designs, and one is for a floral bracelet. The unsigned basket shown below uses the same style of floral elements as the Boucher brooch patent (shown above). In fact, all of the floral patents assigned to L. Mazer are design variations of the Boucher for Mazer patent.
This is design patent number 109,898 issued to L. Mazer May 31, 1938. This design features the same plastic leaves as the Boucher for Mazer design patent shown above. All of the other L. Mazer floral design patents feature the same leaf element and are likely all variations on the floral theme designed by Boucher.
The basket pin shown below is unsigned. It does not exactly match any of the L. Mazer floral patents. However, the plastic leaf components in this unsigned pin match the “Boucher” components in the Mazer patents. It is therefore attributed to Mazer and likely a design variation of the floral Mazer patents.
In addition to the design elements, this basket is attributed to MAZER by the molded letters identifying the artist(s) who worked on the piece. Other brands from this era have similar marks but MAZER designs are known to have them.
The following design patent is an example of a L. Mazer design. (Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 shows the other known Mazer design patents.)
Design patent number 123,910 assigned to L. Mazer December 10, 1940.
The Mazer mask pin motif is a distinctive and innovative design.
J. Wyuts
Three design patents for MAZER are assigned to J. Wyuts. One in 1939 and two in 1941. An example of a 1941 Wyuts design is shown below.
Design patent number 124,522 issued to J. Wuyts for Mazer January 7, 1941.
A. Fleuridas
Design patents do more than just identify the designer and the date of the design. Sometimes a patent drawing provides a clue to the hardware components preferred by a brand. For example, A. Fleuridas created several patented designs for MAZER from 1948 – 1951. Nine of these patents were for earrings and one was for a bracelet. The earring patent drawing shown below provides a peek into the style of earring back MAZER was using at the time. Of course, the earring back was likely used for many years, but the patent drawing confirms it was in use in 1950.
Earring design patent number 156,085 issued to A. Fleuridas for Mazer November 22, 1949. Mazer pin back with the same “wheel” design as the one shown in the design patent shown above.
JOMAZ
There are three known designers for JOMAZ designs: Thierry Mugler in 1978, Aldofo 1970, and Sandi Miller.
MAZER GALLERY
Unsigned Mazer
Some early Mazer designs are unsigned. They are attributed to Mazer by details in the designs and/or construction.
Measuring 2″ this unsigned pin is attributed to Mazer and dates to the late 1930s – early 1940s. The symmetrical design is rhodium plated with gold plated florals. The hanging-basket design features a creamy faux pearl at the bottom and red cabochon stones at the center of the flowers. Left: Back view showing the open-backed center stones and two-piece construction. Right: The design of the handles is a brand trait for signed Mazer jewelry from this era. This 2 1/2″ unsigned pin is referred to by collectors are the Mazer Sorceress pin. This example is signed STERLING and features a creamy green stone face with and green stones in the halo.
The sorceress pin has been found in base metal and sometimes with different stones. The sterling example above dates to 1941 – 1946. The use of the circle shape in the halo conveys the magical motif in a positive way suggesting she is a good sorceress.
Mazer Sterling
Mazer created many abstract bow designs with a “lantern” shape element. This 2 3/4″ bow is marked MAZER STERLING and dates to 1941 – 1946. Mazer often used aquamarine and red rhinestones, especially in sterling designs.The use of line in this design is easy to see in this back view. The signature, typical of the Mazer brand, is stamped into the metal.Wing tip to wing tip this wonderful bird pin measures 2″. It is signed MAZER STERLING and dates to 1941 – 1946. The use of ruby baguettes as wing feathers is both innovative and visually strong. In this design red baguettes have a high visual weight.
MAZER (not sterling)
This recognizable 4″ brooch is signed MAZER and has the letter “H” stamped into the rhodium plated back. The amethyst rhinestones work as shade for the deep ruby rhinestones. Left: The tiny rhinestones accenting the ruby and amethyst stones is a design trait of Mazer. The earrings shown with the brooch are signed JOMAZ but coordinate well with the brooch. A blue version of this design is shown on page 244 of Brunialti, Carla Ginelli and Roberto. American Costume Jewelry Art & Industry, 1935 – 1950 Volumes A – M. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2008. Brunialti dates this design to 1941. It is called “Flower Spray.”Ever popular, this gold-plated signed MAZER bow pin measures 3″ and features high quality, golden-topaz rhinestones. The 3/4″ earrings are also signed MAZER but have rose gold plating. This set dates to the late 1930s – early 1940s.Measuring slightly over 7″ this beautiful MAZER bracelet features red, blue, and green leaf-shaped stones in a symmetrical, line design. The floral elements suggest this bracelet dates to the late 1930s – early 1940s. “Z” or “S” shaped links connect the colorful leaf stones.The MAZER signature is on one of the connectors, not the clasp. In addition, this bracelet is signed with the letter “N”. In lovely condition, this signed Mazer bracelet measures 7 1/4″. The matching earrings are 1″. Both gold and rhodium plating are used in this design with elegant emerald rhinestones and crystal stones. The design of the earring coordinates but does not exactly match the bracelet. These pieces were purchased together and likely have always been together. Design variations in a set are normal. A designer sometimes creates several earring options for a design.The earrings have the “wheel” design shown in the 1949 patent above. The nonuse of sterling dates this design to 1947 – 1950s. The center design on the bracelet features scrolling curves decorated with baguette rhinestones ALL in an oval-shaped frame.
These 3/4″ crown earrings are signed MAZER and date to the 1947 – 1950s. Even though they are tiny, the workmanship is huge. Both silver and gold tone plating are used. Royal emerald, ruby, and amethyst stones decorate the center. The curved shape is so well done, they can sit on a table like little sculptures.
Both earrings are stamped MAZER.
MAZER BROS.
The 4 1/4″ Mazer Bros. sword pin shown above was designed in the late 1940s to resemble the “Sword of Offering” used in British coronation ceremonies.It features a lion’s head and paws, rhodium plating, and cabochon rhinestone jewels set in round and square settings. Pavé crystal rhinestones decorate the heavily rhodium plated surface. The level of detail in this piece is outstanding as is the overall workmanship. In addition to this sword, Mazer designed an orb, a crown, a scepter, and a larger version of this sword with both gold tone and silver tone plating. It dates to 1948 – 1950s.
This 14 1/2″ choker necklace and matching 1″ clip earrings feature decorative bows. The ends of the bow suspend the sapphire stones. It is a lovely, innovative use of the popular bow motif. The design is fully symmetrical.The necklace is signed MAZER BROS. on the clasp, the earrings are signed MAZER. 1948 – 1950s
From the late 1940s through the 1950s, Mazer created many beautiful sets like the one above. They often featured fold over clasps and a decorative pendant suspended on a chain.
The bell-shaped stones set in interlocking, tear-drop shaped frames, are the stars of this design. The 15” necklace, 7 ¼” bracelet and 1 5/8” earrings are symmetrical designs.
JOMAZ GALLERY
Pins
This 2 1/2″ Jomaz pin is rich with interesting design features. The texture of the faux jade leaves contrasts with the smooth pearl center. The stem is slightly curved and decorated with crystal baguette rhinestones. A tiny blue enameled butterfly and a rhinestone flower add interest to the lovely floral. They also help to balance the slightly asymmetrical design. 1950s – 1960sThe JOMAZ signature is stamped into the rhodium plated metal. A rivet holds the center pearl in place.This pretty pin has the look of fine jewelry. The design could have been by either MAZER or JOMAZ which highlights the design connection between the companies. It measures 2 1/4″ with pearls and rhodium plating. The JOMAZ signature is stamped into the metal. 1949 – 1960s.Dating to 1949 – 1950s, this set features three Lucite maple leaves decorated with rhinestone leaves. The pin measures 2″, the clip earrings are 1 1/4″. Unfortunately, the photos do not capture the beauty of this set. The leaves are scalloped (seen better from the back) and set in open-backed, rhodium plated frames. The negative space in the frames helps the light shine through. The rhinestone leaf in the middle has a slightly curved stem. Gold-plated veins run though each leaf. The pin is signed JOMAZ without the copyright symbol and has the number “5” stamped into the metal. Both earrings are signed JOMAZ. One earring has the letter “M” or “W”. Just like MAZER, some JOMAZ designs have the mark of the craftsperson who worked on the piece. This 2″ JOMAZ leaf pin is a variation on the same motif as the above set except this pin is outlined by crystal stones. It is signed JOMAZ with the number “2”. 1949 – 1950sElegant 1950s 2 1/2″ floral pin featuring blue moonstones. These stones have a stream of light deep inside that moves when the stone is turned in the light in the same way the light in a star sapphire moves. The stems consist of curving lines. The oval 1″ earrings mirror the flower design. The earrings are signed JOMAZ without the copyright symbol. The pin is unsigned except for the letter “m”. This set is an example of JOMAZ recreating in costume jewelry the look of fine jewelry.This 1 1/2″ pin features three iridescent shells highlighted by aurora borealis rhinestones in a fully symmetrical design. It is in the shape of a triangle. 1955 – 1960sThe partial signature is stamped into the back of one rhodium plated shell.This expressive JOMAZ fish pin has a faux lapis eye, smooth gold tone fins and pierced metal body. It measures 2″.The back view shows the full, rounded, three-dimensional body. 1955 – 1980.This Jomaz oval rigid bracelet features pierced metal decorated with diamond-shaped lines of crystal. The crystal lines are set in silver tone metal. It is a geometric variation on a classic “hugs and kisses” style bracelet. The push button clasp is adorned with a crystal rhinestone. It is comfortable to wear and fits an average size wrist.Signed JOMAZ with the copyright symbol this 2″ clown pin is beautifully designed and expertly manufactured. The details tell the story of this clown. He is tipping his hat with well-formed, gloved hands. His happy face is beautifully enameled. His nose and eyes are cabochon stones. Each gold tone patch on the clown’s suit is carefully wiped clean of any enamel residue. He is constructed in two pieces riveted together.This beautiful pin is signed JOMAZ without the copyright symbol dating it to before 1955. However, the design suggests it dates to the 1960s. It features faux opal cabochon stones in blue and pink. The swirl of ribbed metal separating the two colors of opal stones enhances the innovative “snake” motif. The large blue opal is crowned with three crystal stones. This is a design trait of both Mazer and Jomaz, especially in their earring designs.This 1960s era pineapple pin is signed JOMAZ with the copyright symbol. It is an asymmetrical design measuring approximately 2 1/2″. The use of textured gold tone metal conveys the prickly nature of a pineapple. The smooth rhodium plated element contrasts with the gold leaves. This is a 1970s era JOMAZ part lion and part dragon figural pin. It measures 3″ X 2″ and features expertly applied blue enamel in a scale-type pattern. The gold tone grid lines have been carefully wiped clean of the enamel. The pin was constructed in three pieces held together by rivets. The paws have defined claws. The detailed face includes crystal rhinestones and a red eye.The JOMAZ signature with the copyright symbol is in a raised rectangle. Earlier signatures are stamped.Measuring 4 1/2″ this huge flower pin is signed JOMAZ with the copyright symbol. The huge size is the most visually dominant feature of this design. Sandor was making long-stemmed flower pins in the 1960s, so this Jomaz pin likely dates to the 1960s – 1970s. Like the pineapple pin above, this flower is an example of the effective use of texture. The flower petals are textured and scalloped growing from a smooth gold tone stem. 1970s – 1980 This 2 1/2″ enameled butterfly pin is signed JOMAZ with the copyright symbol. It is a flat design with a textured back. Curving lines of crystal follow the outline of the butterfly. Black and cream enamel form the background. This is a simple, yet attractive design for JOMAZ.
