Today I want to explore some of the wonderful information in a book titled “Overview of Siam Sterling Nielloware” by Charles Dittell. My copy is the third edition published in 2012.
Niello is a black mixture used by craftspeople for hundreds of years as an inlay on engraved or etched sterling. The process involves an amalgam of 50% sulfur and 50% silver, copper, and lead. For jewelry, this amalgam is mixed with soldering flux and painted onto etched sterling silver. Then the jewelry is cleaned and polished.
Nielloware is the term for an item made using the Nilleo process.
The signed Siam Sterling jewelry found in the collectible marketplace was made by skilled Thai craftspeople using the ancient process.
Dittel explains the origin and names of figures often found on Siam Sterling jewelry.
The common (but not exclusive) “theme” of Siam sterling Nielloware is based on an epic lyrical legend which in Thailand is called Ramakien, the Thai adaption of the Indian epic Hindu legend, Ramayama.
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The book then gives an interesting summary of the legend and provides drawings of Ramayama figures often found in Siam jewelry.
The following Siam sterling jewelry is from my collection. Only the black and silver jewelry was made by the Niello process. The white Siam Sterling jewelry (and other colors of Siam Sterling jewelry not shown) is enameled.
Siam Sterling with white enameling and alternative motifs:
As you can see, all of my Siam Sterling jewelry needs to be polished. It was easier to photograph without reflections from polished sterling, but I will clean it with a soft polishing cloth before returning it to the collection.
The Dittell book is well-researched and presented. Many examples of jewelry are provided, a list of manufacturers, tips on the most collectible pieces, and examples of nonjewelry Nielloware items. It is a great reference and worth the space in my library.
Happy Collecting,
Julie