Today I want to explore the term “invisibly’ set stones, first with a look at the history of the term and then with examples of ways costume jewelry brands imitate the “look”.
History
Many of the techniques found in high-end costume jewelry originated with innovations in fine jewelry. For example, Van Cleef & Arpels patented a new setting in 1933 for their expensive ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond fine gemstone jewelry. They called it a “mystery” setting because the square stones appeared to have nothing holding them in place. There were no visible prongs or cups. Today stones set in this way are commonly referred to as being “invisibly” set.
In fine jewelry, this is an expensive process requiring a skilled stone cutter and a skilled jeweler. The stone cutter creates a groove in the girdle of the stones that precisely fits into a thin wire frame or grid created by a jeweler. The stones are carefully set in the grid, so they are seamlessly close together. When properly done, the grid is hidden so that the stones appear as one large stone.
Immitations
To affordably imitate the look of invisibly set stones, costume jewelry had to make adjustments to the technique because it was not practical or cost effective to add a groove in the girdle of rhinestones and then produce custom frames for each piece.
Over time, the definition of invisibly set stones for costume jewelry designs has expanded, shifted to include a variety of settings with some, but not all of the elements of the fine jewelry technique. (Note: In linguistics the term semantic shift refers to the way the definition of a word changes over time.)
Example 1:
This sterling leaf pin from Germany is an example of costume jewelry with the look of invisibly set rhinestones. Square sapphire rhinestones are secured in place by a hidden structure so that no prongs or other forms of support are visible.
Example 2:
The Mazer Sterling clip shown below illustrates a variation of the original definition of invisible settings. The construction is faithful to the original definition in three ways: there a hidden grid structure, the stones are square in shape, and they are set close together.
The construction differs from the original definition in two ways. There are visible side prongs holding the stones in place. In addition, small bezel set stones run down the center interrupting the look of one solid stone.
Example 3:
The Mazer bow pin shown below is another variation of invisible settings.
Two rows of square stones in the bow pin are set in a wide channel setting. Like the Mazer clip, a row of bezel set stones runs down the middle.
(A channel setting is when stones are set next to each other in a walled channel. Most channel settings only have ONE row of stones.)
Example 4:
The following set was designed Marcel Boucher. This set features two or three rows of baguette rhinestones set close together with no prongs or support other than the channel walls. They appear to be one solid stone.
This variation differs from the original definition because of the baguette stone shape and the lack of a grid structure. The stones are glued closely together in curved channel settings.
Conclusion:
All of these examples feature jewelry settings with SOME of the qualities of the Van Cleef & Arpels’ original “mystery” settings. In my OPINION a semantic shift in the definition of “invisible” settings has occurred and all of these examples can legitimately be described as having “invisibly set” stones.
I wrote the following definition for invisible settings that is tolerant of variations for costume jewelry.
Suggested Semantic Shift Definition for “Invisible” Settings:
In costume jewelry, “invisibly set” stones refers to two or more rows of closely set, INDIVIDUAL stones, usually square, in settings with little or no visible means of support so that they appear to be one, seamless, solid stone. An underlying grid frame is preferred, but not required. Variations in construction are acceptable including visible prongs along the sides, channel walls along the sides, glue, and alternative rhinestone shapes.
I enjoy thinking about the way jewelry is described online today and in vintage advertisements of the past. Language is “squishy” and ever changing. For beginning collectors, I hope this blog is helpful in defining invisible settings in costume jewelry. I recommend taking the time to look carefully at online jewelry descriptions and decide for yourself if the descriptions accurately reflect the quality of the design.
Happy Collecting,
Love,
Julie