1963 – 1996
Les Bernard jewelry has an interesting history and features lovely designs created with innovative techniques. Today these designs are affordable for collectors with many pieces selling for under $100.00.
Brief History
Les Bernard jewelry was named for founders: Bernard Shapiro and Lester Joy. Bernard Shapiro was the son of well-respected Vogue Jewelry designer Harold Shapiro. Lester Joy was a talented jewelry designer. Les Bernard, Inc. was based in New York, NY at 417 5th Avenue from 1963 – 1996. The jewelry was both designed and manufactured at this site.
Costume Jewelers The Golden Age of Design by Joanne Dubbs Ball includes an interesting article on Les Bernard jewelry based on an interview with Bernard Shapiro. She writes,
During the late 1970s and early 1980s, Les Bernard was responsible for the design and production of jewelry bearing the names of two renowned couturiers – Mary McFadden and James Galanos – as well as introducing the highly successful Dynasty Collection.
Ball p. 162
Two trademarks, now defunct, for Les Bernard are listed on the US trademarks website. Both of these trademarks are featured in Les Bernard advertisements.
Reminder: A trademark is NOT a patent for a design or manufacturing technique.
A trademark can be any work, phrase, symbol, design, or combination of these things that identifies your goods or services. It is how customers recognize you in the marketplace and distinguish you from your competitors.
www.uspto.gov
The first Les Bernard trademark is “Diamond Point” filed on December 9, 1968 and registered on November 11, 1969. Les Bernard’s advertising uses this trademark to separate their jewelry designs sculpted using a diamond pointed tool from other jewelry brands. The trademark gives Les Bernard the sole ownership of the words “Diamond Point” to describe the technique described in their jewelry advertising.
Several Les Bernard vintage advertisements from 1968 proudly proclaim the use of the diamond-point technique or tool to “sculpt” their designs. Usually, the pins in these advertisements are small sterling figural designs with 14-carat gold-plating. They often include small semi-precious stones for eyes and tiny rhinestone decorations.
In the 1960s 14K gold pins, featuring birds in a natural setting, were popular. Les Bernard, Inc. created costume jewelry versions of these fine jewelry figural designs at a much lower price point.
The faceting on the small pink and blue sapphire stones is irregular suggesting they are genuine semi-precious stones. Note: The stones are so small, even if “real”, they have little intrinsic value. Their collectible value is in the interesting use of these stones to add authenticity to the costume jewelry design.
Les Bernard sterling designs are often tarnished in the collectible marketplace but are easily cleaned with a polishing cloth. The before and after cleaning pictures below show this transformation.
The second Les Bernard trademark “Rare Species” is first seen in 1973 – 1974 advertisements. Necklaces from this time period often include natural materials like mother-of-pearl and real Baltic amber.
Beginning in the early 1970s, Les Bernard also produced a variety of chains with the look of fine gold or silver.
In addition to the use of sterling and semi-precious stones, Les Bernard is credited with innovatively mixing rhinestones with marcasite stones on the same surface, in the same piece.
Les Bernard is also remembered for their mechanical jewelry and interesting astrological designs. (not shown)
The following figural of a bull features a well-sculpted and enameled design.
The following black beads are likely part of the “Rare Species” collection due to the use of natural materials. They feature irregularly shaped black agate stones that have been tumbled to smooth out the edges. The top and bottom surfaces are then highly polished. Gold tone faux bamboo spacers add wonderful contrast to the deep, dark black beads.
Frustratingly many Les Bernard necklaces are unsigned. Once unsigned necklaces are separated from the signed earrings, they can become lost. Studying the clasps and techniques of Les Bernard is helpful, but uncertain.
In the 1980s and 1990s Les Bernard jewelry designs are modified from small pieces with semi-precious stones to bold modernist designs. The following set is an example of the extraordinary transformation in design at this time.
The vintage shield design motif maintains Les Bernard’s high-quality standards. The brushed gold plating is thickly applied. The chain consists of two link designs combined in an interesting pattern. The shield design features bezel set square sapphire, ruby, and emerald rhinestones outlined by sapphire enamel.
Shapes are key to this design and include round, square (diamond), and triangular elements. The door-knocker style earrings coordinate beautifully with the necklace.
The necklace is unsigned but both clip earrings are signed Les Bernard.
Studying Les Bernard jewelry offers collectors a window into the huge changes in design and materials from the early 1960s until the 1990s. This brand spans several design styles: small figural pins with semi-precious stones imitating the look of fine jewelry, innovative mechanical pieces, astrological pieces, natural stone necklaces, plain faux gold chains, and modernist interpretations of medieval and Roman styles. This huge variety of design adaptations speaks well for the dedication of Les Bernard to meet the needs of their customers and to consistently produce quality, innovative designs.
I’ve held onto these examples of Les Bernard jewelry for many, many years. In my opinion, they have earned a place in my collection. I love them all!
Happy Collecting,
Love,
Julie