Ralph Polcini founded Leading Jewelry Co. in 1911. The company began marking jewelry Ledo in 1948. After Ralph Polcini’s death in 1963, his son renamed the company Polcini Manufacturing Co. At this time the Ledo signature was replaced with Polcini. The company continued until the late 1980s.
Jewelry marked Ledo is scarce today. Many of the designs feature clear rhinestones in rhodium plated metal which are often difficult to photograph. In person, these designs are gorgeous.
Author’s Note: In my opinion Ledo wide bracelets are undervalued in the market place. This Ledo bracelet was shown on page 223 of the second edition of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101. I clearly recall the first time I saw this masterpiece. I borrowed it from a friend to photograph for the book. For me it was love at first sight.
Each of the twelve links is an architectural masterpiece! The camera cannot capture the richness of this gold-plated bracelet.
Ledo designs often feature a careful placement of baguette-shaped rhinestones to create intricate shapes. The first link features baguette-shaped stones set in graceful archways. The second link resembles a sideways step-pyramid with a baguette shaped center piece. The third link is an oval shape decorated with baguette shaped stones.
The next Ledo bracelet is a symmetrical panther-link design. Panther link bracelets usually have five rows, but some have less. Panther links simulate the look of the pattern made by World War II German tanks.
Note the thickness of each link and the quality rhodium plating. Vintage designs often have “quality” weight meaning they are heavy, but well-made and comfortable.
The design of this Ledo necklace and pin is similar to some Marcel Boucher designs that feature dimensional open leaves. The necklace is a continuous collar design decorated with faux white pearls and tiny bezel set clear rhinestones.
The following set is a 1949 Marcel Boucher design featuring an open-work leaf design similar to the Ledo set. It is likely this leaf design came from a high-end fine jewelry brand and was adapted by both makers for costume jewelry.
The Ledo repeating link design is fully symmetrical. It has the “quality” weight of early well-made jewelry, but well-balanced, so it is comfortable to wear.
The convertible brooch shown below is unsigned except for utility patent number 2044225 issued to R. Polcini February 2, 1936 for the mechanical design of the mechanism holding the two clips together.
Baguette rhinestones, set in a dimensional fan shape, decorate each clip.
Ledo designs frequently include baguette-shaped stones. Nolan Miller’s earrings shown below reimagine this Ledo design feature.
The 1950 Ledo advertisement features several Ledo designs featuring baguette-shaped stones.
When worn, this small 2″ Ledo floral pin adds a floral sparkle to any top, even a t-shirt.
The Ledo signature on this pretty pin has a squiggly line under Ledo. The meaning of this is unknown.
The flowing floral pin below features beautiful, delicate swirls of stones that add grace and movement to the heart-shaped center. This example has light-rose navette-shaped stones.
The Ledo signature on this piece is difficult to read. The capital script L is blurred, by the large copyright symbol on the left.
This patriotic rooster pin is an example of a Ledo figural design.
Some Ledo designs feature high-quality rhinestones. The fully symmetrical button earrings shown below showcase emerald stones in gold plated metal.
Back view showing the Ledo signature.
Conclusion:
Ledo jewelry is scarce. Any bracelet collector NEEDS at least one Ledo wide bracelet in their collection. Overall, Ledo designs are interesting, flowing, designs often reflective of the 1940s aesthetic.
Although made by the same family, the designs signed Polcini from the 1960s have a different aesthetic, but that is a topic for another blog. I hope you enjoyed looking at the lovely Ledo jewelry.
Happy Collecting!
Love,
Julie