Dates of Operation: For the most part this chapter is limited to Monet jewelry made in the mid-1980s but there are some 1970s and post 1980s designs included.
Monocraft/Monet is a well-respected manufacturing company that has been in continuous business since ~ 1930.
Monet Jewelry is a branch of Monocraft that began in 1937. In her book Monet The Master Jewelers Alice Vega discusses Monet’s gradual entry into the jewelry business.
By all accounts the Chernows’ entry into the costume jewelry business was a gradual process that was meticulously planned and researched. They refused to be a “me too” kind of company, and focused instead on what they did best – metal.
Vega, Alice. Monet the Master Jewelers. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2011. p. 27.
Monet was a family business. Brothers Michael and Joseph Chernow operated the Monocraft and Monet Jewelry business for many decades.
While both brothers ran the business jointly, Michael was involved in the creative part of the business – merchandising the line and working closely with the designers. Jay was involved with everything and anything having to do with the business side..
Vega, p. 11
Monocraft and Monet were heavily advertised in newspapers, magazines, and through direct sales including a famous Monet advertising campaign featuring beautiful women with a cloth gracefully draped over their heads while they model Monet jewelry. These were called the “hooded lady” advertisement. The cover of the Vega book shows an example of a “hooded lady” advertisement.
Monet Jewelry’s mission statement:
After we made an intensive survey of jewelry departments we realized a wonderful market could be developed to serve women of discriminating taste with jewelry that looked real and at a price they could afford to pay! ..TO CREATE OUT OWN ORIGINAL DESIGNS IN THE FINEST QUALITY JEWLERY [sic] SCIENCE KNOWS HOW TO MAKE.
Vega, p. 25
Through the 1960s and 1970s Monet jewelry sold so well through select department stores, the company had to turn down business. Their marketing strategies included a training program for department store personnel. [Vega, p. 34]
Brand Trait: Monet produced high-quality, innovative metal – detailed – designs.
The following Monet necklace dates to 1974. It is shown on page 44 of Alice Vega’s book in a “Hooded Lady” advertisement.
Brand Trait: Monet often combined smooth and textured metals in one design.
Brand Trait: Open space or negative space is often part of Monet’s designs. The negative space adds to the interest in the design but also helps lower the weight of large pieces.
Monet made modernist hinged collar necklaces, like the necklace shown below, in the 1970s helping to date this set to the 1970s – 1980s.
This necklace features dark navy enamel on one side crossing over shiny rhodium plated metal on the other. A button of silver tone metal connects the two sharply contrasting sides.
The necklace is hinged so it lays flat and is comfortable to wear. It measures approximately 18″.
In 1966 Monet was sold to General Mills. In 1977 Monet launched a fine jewelry collection called Ciani that lasted until 2000. Then an innovative modern collection called Concepts was developed in 1981 and another called Directives in 1984.
In 1981 Monet Jewelry won the license to produce Yves Saint Laurent costume jewelry in the United States. This is not surprising considering the quality of Monet’s manufacturing and the modern designs they produced in the 1970s. The 1980s jewelry, with its fashion-forward designs enhanced by Yves Saint Laurent’s forward styling, coupled with Monet quality, has become some of the most collectible jewelry from that period.
Signatures for 1980s+ jewelry:
Gallery
Monet Mid-1980s
It was called Tympany and features rose gold plating, geometric shapes, and aurora borealis sheeting.
Dating to the mid 1980s, the set shown below is featured on page 274 of Alice Vega’s book Monet The Master Jewelers.
…The free form shape of the pin at the bottom is really worth noting for its unique look and shape. Made up of crystal baguettes; large, irregular frosted stones; and peach colored pear shaped stones of various sizes, it is really a special piece in itself…
Vega, p. 274
The hinged-clamper bracelet mirrors the pendant design. It is a substantial bracelet. The center decoration measures 1 1/2″ and the back is over an 1″.
The clip earrings have a slightly different but coordinating design. They feature rectangles with the edges clipped so they have eight sharp sides, topped by a symmetrical stack of baguettes.
The colorful, geometric set below dates to the 1980s.
It consists of coordinating enameled shapes in beige or antique white, red, and black enamel. The pierced earrings measure 1 1/2″ and feature two triangles and one square (set on the diagonal). The necklace has removable shapes so it can be worn with one, two, three, or all four shapes. It measures 17 1/2″ including the extension piece.
The cuff bracelet is comprised of curved metal with a separate (3 shape) piece riveted to the front. It is comfortable and fits an average size write.
Brand Trait: Some 1980s Monet bracelet designs consist of wide, curved metal bent to comfortably fit the wrist.
The chain does not photograph well. In person it is dark and shiny adding some sparkle to the set.
The long double-chain necklace and earrings set below is stunning in person. It is from the 1984 La LaScala series. A collar necklace from this series is shown on page 251 of Vega’s book. The set was made in purple, and the green shown below.
When worn, due to the placement of the decorative elements, the necklace is asymmetrical. Each element consists of an irregularly shaped, matte gold-plated shape studded with crystal rhinestones. The frame is designed to hold the modernist decorative center consisting of green and copper resin separated by a semi-circle of silver tone metal. The decorative element is riveted to the gold tone frame.
Author’s Note: I love long necklaces that slip over my head. This is one of my favorites because the colors are neutral and work with many different tops.
Although there is no clasp the necklace does have a Monet hang tag and the earrings are marked.
The following Monet set was made in two colors. It features matte silver center pieces. The bracelet below illustrates an alternative color available in this design.
There is no clasp. The necklace consists of six silver chains for a total length of 33″ including the large 3 1/4″ decorative element.
Shape and texture work together in this very interesting design. The copper frame has the look of an animal print done is copper and black.
Contrast also plays a role in the design of these elements. The shiny copper frame contrasts with the silver tone matte finish center element.
The following beaded necklace set is shown on page 267 of Vega’s book.
The design of this set relies on shape, contrasting colors, curved lines, and beautiful enameling techniques. The shape and the use of red is reminiscent of an Eastern inspired jewelry.
The sun face set below is a newer, post 1980s design. One way to date Monet earrings is by examining the style of the clasp.
Monet 1970s pierced earrings featured a barrel clasp designed by Monet. Posts designed for barrel clasps are unnotched. [Vega, p. 230]
Newer Monet pierced earrings feature the common butterfly clasp that require a notch in the post to hold the clasp in place.
Brand Trait: Monet did not offer pierced earrings until the 1970s. [Vega, 230]
In 1985, General Mills decided to sell all of their acquisitions, including Monet. Monet was sold to the Crystal Brands Group in November 1985. It remained a part of that group until 1994 when it was sold to CBJG Acquisition Group. Under this group Monet acquired the license to make jewelry for Christian Lacroix in 1995. The Monet Group was then acquired by the Liz Claiborne group in 2000. Manufacturing has since been moved out of the U.S. (Information from Vega, pgs. 35 – 38.)