Author’s Note: I am honored to know Julie Francis Irving, a collector and researcher of Schiaparelli American-made jewelry. She owns a shop “Chapel Hill Vintage Jewelry” on Ruby Lane https://www.rubylane.com/shop/chapel-hill-vintage-jewels and created a popular YouTube video series discussing various topics about collecting costume jewelry. The videos, Five Things to Know About …, can be found at http://www.youtube.com/@chapelhillvintagejewels . Julie has traveled widely gathering fascinating information about Elsa Schiaparelli and her American-made jewelry. She has generously agreed to share her expertise for this unit.

Introduction:

The jewelry featured in this unit dates from post-World War II. Post war prosperity and the surge in popularity of costume jewelry priced to be affordable for ALL women influenced Schiaparelli jewelry designs. Her post war designs are not copies of fine jewelry. They are original and distinctive designs with identifiable brand traits. In her couture house Schiaparelli applied the ideas of surrealism to fashion. In a more refined, wearable way, she continued this theme in the post war Schiaparelli jewelry bearing her name.

From the first time I purchased a collection of 68 pieces of Schiaparelli jewelry in 2014, just at the time I was retiring from IBM, I have studied and expanded my collection and fueled my passion.  In the excellent book reference, “European Designer Jewelry,” Ginger Moro estimated that over a thousand different styles were executed in America after Schiaparelli licensed her name in 1949.  My experiences tell me that was an underestimated number.  From the unfoiled glass bold sets mounted with aurora borealis stones to the huge oval faceted bracelets, the designs made for the American market are both beautiful and dramatic.

Julie Francis Irving, Collector and Researcher of Schiaparelli American-Made Jewelry

Brief History of Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890 into a wealthy Italian family. She started the House of Schiaparelli in 1927 and is credited with many innovations in women’s fashions earning her an iconic place in fashion history. Schiaparelli’s couture designs were greatly influenced by the surrealism movement that questioned conventional ideas after World War I.

Definition: Surrealism in jewelry embraces the imagination and unconventional aspects of the human mind. Instead of a photographic depiction of a flower, a surreal artist depicts the flower the way the unconscious mind, the dreaming mind, might imagine the flower. In this way the rational mind and the unconscious mind work together. The resulting design reflects freedom of thought and form based on the individual artist’s aesthetic.

Elsa Schiaparelli embraced surrealism through unconventional representations of the natural world. For example, she famously collaborated with Salvadore Dali to design a white gown decorated with the image of red lobster.

She incorporated unconventional materials in some of her jewelry designs including a famous clear plastic necklace with embedded metallic insects.

Whimsy and innovation were also a large part of her aesthetic. She was celebrated in her lifetime for her trompe-l’oeil fashion designs. For example, she created a knit outfit with the image of a scarf knitted into the garment. She is also credited with the wrap dress, a divided skirt, and evening gowns with jackets.

Schiaparelli moved to New York during the war years before returning to France to continue her couture fashion. The House of Schiaparelli in France, located at 21 place Vendome, officially closed in 1954. At this time Schiaparelli published her autobiography Shocking Life.

Even though her couture fashion house closed, she marketed a line of American-made Schiaparelli jewelry.

Schiaparelli did not directly design her post-war jewelry, although she was involved in approving some of the designs.   Considering that Elsa Schiaparelli spent most of the war years in the U.S., she understood the American market. 

It is known that D. Lisner was licensed to exclusively market and distribute her jewelry, beginning in 1938. There is also evidence that DeRosa manufactured some Schiaparelli jewelry, but little is known of which designs and what years.

Eventually, after a few name, location and personnel changes all in Philadelphia, Schiaparelli Jewels, on Walnut Street, produced most of the American-made pieces. Growth was explosive during the 1950s through the 1960s. The company’s president flew to Paris frequently for design feedback, and Elsa visited the manufacturing location at least once. There were sales offices staffed in each region of the U.S. and a sales office in New York City.  Collections were announced in the press that buyers could view at each region office.  

It is important to note that Schiaparelli has a history of selecting the best artists available for products bearing her name. The quality of design and innovation were important aspects of her business plan.

Julie Francis Irving, Collector and Researcher of Schiaparelli American-Made Jewelry

Her “shocking pink” packaging and hang-tag successfully identified and marketed the Schiaparelli brand.

This logo has a story. It is said that Mae West was a client of Schiaparelli’s couture clothing and could not return for a second fitting on a gown that was being designed for her, so she sent a plaster cast of her form. Leonor Fini, an Argentine-Italian surrealist, created the logo from Mae West’s measurements, which became the shape of the “Shocking” perfume bottle and the paper tag. The perfume was introduced in 1937.

In 1938, Schiaparelli announced a sole distribution agreement with the D. Lisner & Co. of New York. The jewelry distributed under this agreement would be hallmarked on the back with the Schiaparelli name and include the distinctively shaped Schiaparelli hang-tag.

Schiaparelli marketed jewelry in sets and not all pieces in a set were hallmarked. Some were only identified by the removable hang-tag.

There are Schiaparelli jewelry designs that incorporate rhinestones with the Schiaparelli “Shocking” pink color (fuchsia), but they are not the centerpiece of the design.

Julie Francis Irving, Collector and Researcher of Schiaparelli American-Made Jewelry

Elsa Schiaparelli died in 1973 and the rights to her name were sold. In 2007 Diego Della Valle bought the rights to the Schiaparelli brand. In 2012 Elsa Schiaparelli couture fashion house reopened at 21 place Vendome. (www.schiaparelli.com)

Schiaparelli Signatures

The earliest Schiaparelli signature (not shown) is SCHIAPARELLI in caps without the copyright symbol on a rectangular cartouche. This cartouche has pointed, squared edges.

The following is a partial list of authentic Schiaparelli signatures for post-World War II jewelry. Legitimate Schiaparelli script signatures have the “ia” clearly visible. Some authentic signatures clearly show the “r e” and some do not. The letters “r e” in script signatures are often close together and look more like a “Re” without a space. Sometimes the “c” crosses over the “S”.

1. Schiaparelli script with “Re” close together on a rectangular, rounded edge cartouche.

2. Clear Schiaparelli signature with the “c” overlapping the “S” stamped directly into the metal.

3. The same clear signature as it appears on a typical Schiaparelli earring back. The earring back also has design patent number 156452 issued December 13, 1949 to F.W. Moulson for the aesthetic design of the clip.

4. Same earring design without a patent number.

5. Same signature in gold plated metal.

6. Faint signature in gold plated metal on a rectangular cartouche.

7. Same signature in silver tone metal on a rectangular cartouche.

8. Printed Schiaparelli signature in all CAPS with the copyright symbol.

9. Unusual Earring Back with the print SCHIAPARELLI with the copyright shown above.

The following is an example of a brooch with a misspelled Schiaparelli signature. Some Schiaparelli experts believe the misspelled Schiaparelli signature cartouche is a fake. Some believe was a mistake made by the manufacturer.

Author’s Note: It is best for beginning collectors to stay away from jewelry with this controversial misspelled Schiaparelli signature.

Gallery

Sets

This is the ruby version, but the advertisement below tells us it was also available in black diamond, sapphire, amethyst, tourmaline, ruby and topaz. The lobster is gold plated and sold for $5.00 in 1957. The matching earrings are signed Schiaparelli with the 1949 design patent number.

Design Trait: Schiaparelli jewelry includes expensive details.

Kite-shaped stones in ruby and black diamond represent the lobster’s claws and form the triangular shape of the head. Aurora borealis rhinestones decorate the head and neck. The arms and tail are rings of metal giving the piece form and texture.

Design Trait: Schiaparelli high-quality, large stones are usually in open-backed settings.

Brand Trait: Schiaparelli designs frequently feature eye-catching stones often with the aurora borealis coating.

Cooled lava from volcanos has been used to make jewelry though out history. In Victorian times cameos were sometimes carved from genuine lava. “Lava stones” in costume jewelry are specialty glass stones with the irregular shape and texture of lava. However, unlike Victorian lava stone jewelry today’s costume jewelry lava stones are available in many, often iridescent colors.

The signed Schiaparelli set below features light sapphire iridescent lava stones and pearlized oval and round stones accented with aurora borealis rhinestones. The light sapphire glass beads mirror the rough texture of the lava stones.

Author’s Note: In the collectible market, unsigned jewelry with lava stones is incorrectly attributed to Schiaparelli based only on the distinctive lava stones.

This set includes two differently shaped leaves, dangling berries, and eye-catching rose aurora borealis rhinestones.

The dangling berries gently move when the pin is worn. Each berry is capped with three leaves. All of the pieces have shiny gold plating.

The following set is an interesting change in mood for Schiaparelli. The monochromatic design consists of smooth light sapphire faceted stones set in rhodium plated metal.

Author’s Note: I refer to this as my “Moonlight Schiaparelli set” because it reminds me of a peaceful moonlight night. I darkened the lighting to better show the details. In person, this set is transparent and has a dreamy quality.

Brand Trait: The design of Schiaparelli earrings features the same stones as the other pieces in a set, although sometimes in a slightly different arrangement.

The brooch and earrings are slightly domed. All of the stones are prong-set in open-backed settings.

Brand Trait: Large stones in Schiaparelli jewelry are prong-set.

The design of this set features many high-end elements. First, the lavender beads are secured by pins to the base. They are nestled between flowing leaves and gold-capped berries decorated with light amethyst rhinestones.

This is an iconic Schiaparelli set featuring round vitrail stones. Vitrail stones reflect a spectrum of colors. The vitrail stones in this set are also called “Watermelon” stones because they reflect a pink center and green outer edge.

This set was much-loved and worn by its original owner. Yet, the stones and the design remain vibrant today.

Bracelets:

This truly wonderful Schiaparelli bracelet features marquis shaped and large oval vitrail “watermelon” stones. The distinctive settings for these stones are reminiscent of Victorian era picture frame jewelry and a departure from Schiaparelli’s nature motif designs.

Schiaparelli clamper style bracelets are rare. This example features topaz scalloped edge stones and crystal stones set. The following example was sold with at least two different earring designs and a brooch. (not shown)

Brand Trait: Schiaparelli jewelry frequently includes stones with the aurora borealis coating dating the jewelry with this coating to after 1954.

Schiaparelli is known for her wide-bracelet designs featuring a generous, rich display of beautiful stones.

Necklace:

Sometimes referred to as a “headlight” necklace this Schiaparelli design consists of four, rose-cut light sapphire stones alternating with navette-shaped sapphire stones. All of the stones are prong-set in high-profile mountings.

Design Trait: Often, but not always, Schiaparelli design elements are in the front and do not extend all of the way around the neck.

Pins:

Rarely found, this Schiaparelli pin features two sizes of pressed glass rose stones. In this example the rose stones are green with an aurora borealis coating giving them a lovely iridescent quality.

The stones are set in a “grid” of gray stylized leaves. The leaves mimic the design of a rose trellis.

Author’s Note: Collectors often refer to the rose stones as the “Schiaparelli Rose” because they were famously used in rare, Schiaparelli sets. The “Schiaparelli Rose” was available in several colors. Look for signed “Schiaparelli Rose” designs because other brands loved this stone, too.

Brand Trait: Schiaparelli designs often include contrasting smooth and rough textures.

In addition to the green rose stones, this asymmetrical design includes marquis-shaped molded nugget stones with an aurora borealis coating and smaller aurora borealis stones.

One the most plentiful Schiaparelli designs available in the collectable market today are the Schiaparelli floral cluster pins. Two examples are shown below.

This balanced asymmetrical design features a cluster of tear-drop shaped stones, in varying colors and textures, outlined by a sinuous line of chaton stones. The clusters represent stylized floral blooms.

Brand Trait: The gentle dome shape of Schiaparelli pins is created by the strategic arrangement of stones. No stabilization bars or other forms of support were needed.

The Schiaparelli apple pin shown below is a distinctive design due to the unusual, clever arrangement of the vibrant colors.

The pin measures 2 1/4″. Clear and blue aurora borealis stones decorate the outstretched leaves and the exposed core of the apple. Yellow cabochon stones form the body. The metal is silver tone.

Author’s Note: The unconventional design and the reaction it evokes when worn make it a PERFECT Schiaparelli piece. I can understand, in a very small way, the fun Schiaparelli must have had presenting her unconventional designs.

The brutalist movement in jewelry design from the late 1960 produced jewelry designs featuring metals in organic shapes. The Schiaparelli brooch below embraces the theme of this movement.

The large Lucite, faux opal stone is framed by rough gold coral decorated with white seed pearls. Tentacles peak out from beneath the coral to grasp the stone in a stylized, under-the-sea design.

Earrings

The acorn clip earrings shown here are part of a full and famous Schiaparelli set.

They measure 1 1/2″ and feature a golden ribbed “acorn” cap over a rich, rounded bed of crystal rhinestones.

When worn, these earrings climb up the side of the ear. Each earring measures 1 1/2″. The smoke topaz tapered baguette stones are outlined by crystal rhinestones. The earrings are rhodium plated.

Grapes are a famous Schiaparelli design motif. The green earrings below include distinctive Schiaparelli-shaped leaves studded with peridot rhinestones. A cluster of pearls, dyed green, completes the look. A matching brooch (not show) was also available. The same design was produced in several pastel colors.

Author’s Comments on Schiaparelli Design:

Even though Schiaparelli American-Made jewelry was designed by different manufacturers, there is enough consistency to “see” Schiaparelli design traits in the jewelry.

Shape: Various shapes of large bold stones, usually in the same or coordinating colors, are carefully arranged in the designs.

Line: In keeping with natural motifs, many designs include curving leaves with flowing lines. Some designs are outlined with curving lines of stones.

Color: Many sets are monochromatic in color. The eye-catching sparkle comes from aurora borealis stones, and other elements, that catch the light.

Visual Weight: Color and bright stones are used to create form and manipulate the visual weight of the design.

Balance: Most Schiaparelli designs are symmetrical or well-balanced asymmetrical designs. They are comfortable for the “eye”.

Contrast: Contrasting textures is apparent in many Schiaparelli designs.

Conclusion:

Schiaparelli jewelry is historically important due to Elsa Schiaparelli’s contributions to women’s fashion. She was also a forerunner in cleverly licensing and branding her name, so that Schiaparelli remains a well-known brand today, 50 years after her death.